VAMFF 2016.

Launching tomorrow, the 20^th year of  the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival will run for a week long hosting Australia’s top designers, both up and coming and the cherished favourites. For the first time, the festival hub is now at the Royal Exhibition Building and the Melbourne Museum, where you can catch all the action on the runways as well as unwind and relax at the Festival Plaza. Here are some handy tips to navigate and make the most of the biggest week in Melbourne Fashion.

Experience:  The Runway Shows. Whether it is one of the seven Premium Runways Shows, the National Graduate Showcase, the Jean Paul for Target Runway or the GQ Australian Menswear Runway, there is a runway to suit all your fashion needs and desires. But be quick, many of the runways have sold out, but luckily VAMFF has released a limited number of additional seats for the sold out shows.

Watch: If runways aren’t your thing, head to ACMI for the Fashion on Film Series. Here you can watch the latest fashion documentaries, hot off the runway from across the globe about Jeremy Scott, Givenchy and the late Alexander McQueen, just to name a few.

Eat: Now that the hub for VAMFF has changed, you could not be more spoilt for choice when it comes to dining before or after the show. Think Gertrude St for Trippy Tacos, Smith Street and Brunswick Street for their array of wonderful bars and eateries and how could you forget Lygon Street for the ultimate after show coffee and gelati.

Wear:  Now this probably is the time to don your most stylish outfit, as many people pull out all stops to look their best around Fashion Week. Don’t worry too much the ‘latest’ fashion trends because this is your opportunity to let loose and show Melbourne your creative flair.

Transport: The Premium Runways could not be more easier to get to get to this year. Simply hop on the train to Parliament and enjoy a leisurely stroll through Carlton Gardens. However, if the heat  will prove too much, you can hop on the 96 or 86 trams to allow you to roll up in style.

Head over to the VAMFF website or their Instagram and Twitter for all the deets and up to the minute goss. And most importantly, if you look good, you feel great, so have fun with the festival and be sure to always be camera ready.

- Sarah 

*Mosaik does not take credit for any of the image used in this article

Kuwaii.

Three words: made in Melbourne. There are many things that make Kuwaii very special, with their local manufacturing topping my list. Each season Kuwaii’s designs give a nod to the trends of the season, yet feature strong, classic cuts that enable the clothes to remain practical enough to wear for years following their purchase. Trying on the garments instore you can really feel the quality and care that has gone into the creation of every piece.

Their autumn / winter 2016 collection is to be released in store over the following weeks, and true to form their Aurora collection features structured lines, and strong colour blocking. The largely cool colour palette is perfect for the upcoming season, with a particular focus on grey, blue and khaki tones. You can preview (and pre-order) the current collection online here. Kuwaii will also be showcasing their Aurora collection on the 13^th of March at the VAMFF. Premium Runway 6 will also feature designers including Obus and Limedrop, a line-up way too good to miss. Follow the link here for all the details.

Kuwaii:
Brunswick Store: 37-39 Glenlyon Rd, Brunswick VIC 3056
Melbourne City Store: Shop 7-8 Cathedral Arcade, 37 Swanston Street Melbourne, VIC 3000
Instagram: @kuwaii

-     - Miriam

*Mosaik does not take credit for the images used in this article

Campbell Charlotte.

When it comes to fashion, supporting local, sustainable and ethical designers is so important. In a industry characterised by "fast-fashion", and dodgy practices, it's exciting to here about Campbell Charlotte's stance on minimal material wastage, ethical and local production (the latest collection has been made entirely in Melbourne), and comfortable, durable designs that are ultimately trans-seasonal and timeless .

The latest collection (Summer 15), transports you straight into a pastel dreamworld. Whimsical patterns with light pink, blue and black hues, are printed on natural cotton and linen, with techniques all gained from her background in Fine Arts. Personal favourites from the collection include the wide leg pants in salt, and printed shift in sage - I'm dreaming of pay day. I'm also making it my mission to track down one of the convertible backpacks (pictured below), simply stunning!

The Bank of Melbourne is currently running a competition to offer start up, growing and regional businesses $10,000 to grow their brand. For Charlotte Campbell this will enable her to relocate from home and expand her ability to produce her A/W 16 collection professionally. You can vote for Campbell Charlotte by clicking here and following the link.  Her commitment to bringing sustainability and ethical production back into the fashion industry definitely deserves support.

You can catch Campbell Charlotte, as well as some other brilliant local designers, at the next Markit@FedSquare on the 29th of November, or shop online here. 

- Miriam

* Mosaik does not take credit for the images used in this article.

Bhalo.

It has been said that I have one too many Bhalo garments in my closet and to that I say "Surely not, I haven't even started shopping their new range yet!"

Bhalo is a Western Australian label manufactured and produced by hand in Bangladesh, and they have got us completely covered for summer with their straight cut silhouettes, embroidered patterns and flat geometrics. And although the dresses are perfect for summer, our love for this label will be no summer fling. Bhalo is Bengali for “good”, and after years of dodgy practices in the fashion industry, it’s a label that’s breaking all the rules … and connotations associated with manufacturing in Bangladesh.

The label was started in 2009 by Jessica Priemus and Shimul Minhas Uddin, originally as a charity to bridge the gap between the developed and undeveloped nations, slowly evolving into a label that sought a connection between the garment and the wearer.  Therefore all the Bhalo products are hand woven, printed and embroidered, and the silks and yarns are naturally dyed. 

The whimsical designs paired with the breezy cuts create subtlety, yet simultaneously demand to be noticed. They are a perfect contradiction. However, Bhalo products, like their wearer, are not flawless, and they don’t claim to be. They admit to having small faults, because they are not made by machines but rather by humans; the label employs over 200 producers and artisans in rural Bangladesh. These are garments that connect both with the wearer and the makers.

Bhalo combines traditional construction with innovative design; it abandons mass production and instead embraces longevity. It is said that there is a beauty to simplicity and Bhalo makes life look and feel simpler.

(New range out now, check it out here)

- Alessandra 

*Mosaik does not take any credit for the photos used in this article 

People Profile: Douglas McManus.

I first met Douglas McManus last year and quickly becoming aware of how grossly talented this man is, and he soon became one of my favourite mentors. 

Douglas McManus is one of Australia's leading textile artists with recent exhibitions at the MONA dark mofo festival (laundry of the terminal psyche) and the CRAFT gallery (conversation of gentlemen) while also having works among the NGV permanent collection. Douglas' artworks are monumental sculptural installations that explore his concepts of men, masculinity and emotional states of being. His work is dark and striking, yet it has an ethereal ambience and beauty. He uses digital technology to create delicate pieces of artwork that will leave you awestruck. 

Douglas is someone I have wanted to interview for a while (because I don't think he could ever give a boring answer) and his upcoming exhibition Surrender at Fort Delta gave me an excuse.

- Alessandra 

What makes you the happiest? 

 Being in my studio making art, exploring textile ideas using my new high end TROTEC laser cutter.

What are you most excited about right now?  

The arrival of the lix smallest 3d drawing pen I purchased as part of a pozzible campaign. (Yes I'm a tech nerd).

When did you realise textiles and art was something you wanted to pursue? 

Way back at art school when I started putting fabric through print presses. I was so excited by the effects I created my whole printmaking folio out of fabric instead of traditional paper (to the horror of my lecturers) but I didn't care. The switch landed me a residency in Melbourne after graduating and ever since I've been passionate about textiles as medium for art practice.  

What is a fashion fad that you look back on and cringe?
Cut-off denim shorts (I mean really, really arse flashing short).  God I used to wear a pair when I first started lecturing in textiles at RMIT University. What was I thinking?!

Where do you draw inspiration from?
Inspiration comes from life experiences and interactions with other creative minds. I try not to think too much but just make. My latest show Surrender is about giving in to the process and going with whatever happens.

When do you feel most creative?

Just before dawn after doing yoga, I like the space between dark and light, it is where one can be still. This is when creative ideas come to me.

Do you think there is a difference between art and fashion? 

Depends on your definition of art and fashion. I mean my favourite designer Alexander McQueen crosses boundaries with his extraordinary vision. I think identifying and labeling something fashion, art , design or craft is irrelevant for me.

If a biography was to be written about you what would it be called?  

Confessions of The Glass Collector 

I'm intrigued...Why Confessions of The Glass Collector? 

Oh because the first job I had when I came to Melbourne was collecting glasses at an infamous gay pub, where I was able to meet some amazing men who became the catalyst for many early textile art pieces including hair couture 2000 acquired by the NGV.

Okay, please write that book!
Where would you be if you could be anywhere right now? 

Berlin, I love that city.  

What is your favourite thing about Melbourne?  

The creative energy that exists here. Everyone is involved in some project/performance/space. It amazes me the amount of talent in Melbourne.

Catch Douglas' next exhibition Surrender at Fort Delta opening on Thursday the 8th of October.

*Mosaik does not take credit for any of the images used in this article

Melbourne Spring Fashion Week

The days are getting a little longer and the flowers are starting to bloom, so this can only mean one thing; Melbourne Spring Fashion Week will soon be upon us!

Commencing on the 28^th of August, the Melbourne Town Hall and CBD will be a buzz of all things fashion. Australia’s top designers and brands will showcase their latest Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collections on the runway. 

Alongside the well-known Australian labels, is a showcase of the insanely talented emerging designers in the Emerging Runway 1 and 2. These are my absolute favourite runways, because it’s a great way to support the future designers. 

Fred Hates Fashion is also another showcase bringing together five emerging and established designers, five emerging local directors and five music composers to take on the challenge of creating their own fashion films (epic or what?!).

If runways aren’t your thing, ACMI have a great selection of fashion documentaries which look fantastic or you can check out all the free events going on around the CBD. You can purchase tickets and find out more about what’s going on here.

Remember, stay classy.

- Sarah  

*Mosaik does not take credit for the photo used in this article

For The Oceans.

Aren't we sick of the word "sustainable" being put in front of the word "fashion" to guilt us into buying clothes we would otherwise never buy?

Well our prayers have been answered, sustainable fashion is no longer associated with that recycled potato sack someone tried to sell you as a dress that one time. The fashion world is slowly catching on to what we want: subtle sustainability, which is fashion without the sacrifice of design or aesthetic. 

It is a breathe of fresh air. 

And some of that air is a breeze from the ocean. 

One of the main companies adopting this idea of "subtle sustainability" is G- Star Raw who, in collaboration with The Vortex Project, Bionic Yarn and Pharrell Williams, have created a collection that addresses the issue of plastic in our oceans while simultaneously reducing the impact of the plastic debris that is killing our sea life and slowly entering our aquatic eco-system's food chain. G- Star Raw is already known for pushing the boundaries, and - no pun intended - making waves in fashion, as they centre their business around sustainability and simultaneously manage to make innovative denim. 

Their new collection RAW for the oceans is based on the ideal that you reap what you sow. This new denim capsule collection contains plastic waste collected from the shores of Indonesia, with the first limited collection containing up to 10 tons of recycled PET plastic bottles, or roughly 700,000 bottles. While that is an amazing statistic it parallels with the devastating fact that today oceans contain 6 times more plastic then sea life. Therefore, the collaborators have agreed to continue the capsule collection (now in its second run), increasing the percentage of plastic with each instillment  Currently, the collection is constructed from three different types of Bionic yarn containing between 35- 60% of recycled plastic, depending on the thread. All bottles are tested to ensure they comply with G-Star Raw's quality control and safety standards and those that cannot be used are recycled by The Vortex Project in other collaborations or are recycled in a regular process. 

The use of recycled PET plastic is really the ultimate form of sustainable design, as it is normally used as the core of the yarn so that the look and feel of natural material can be maintained but the final result is a more durable textile, resulting in longevity and minimal care. 

You could really say the entire collaboration is a stroke of pure Jeanius. (pun completely intended)

- Alessandra 

*Mosaik does not take credit for any of the images used in this article

People Profile: Erik Yvon

When Erik Yvon moved to Melbourne about 9 years ago, fashion wasn’t always on the cards when  he first arrived. After starting with culinary arts and having a crack at being a chef, Erik decided to do a complete 360 and try something that has been in the back of his mind, but never had the guts to go for. He applied for a course in Fashion at RMIT and has never looked back.

Now, Erik has started his own label and will be debuting his first collection, XX-XY this Thursday night. So head down to Belleville in Globe Alley tomorrow night, because it will definitely be night not to miss.

- Sarah

What has inspired your first debut collection?

Throughout all of my collections, there is a glimpse of my Mauritian background, depicted through the use of colours. But I also include a combination of elements; prints, shapes and textures which define the core of each collection. Colourful and bold themes are inspired from artists, diverse cultures and everyday surroundings. Through XX-XY, I endeavoured to create a unisex line which can be worn by both genders, and encompass an androgynous look. The prints in XX-XY are fluid, colourful and bold which has become the signature of the label.

Was starting your own business what you thought it would be?

When I started my own business I didn’t know what to expect to be honest. I did a short business course prior to launching it, to have a better grasp of what was required. Have I learned from the short course? Only the future can tell. I knew for sure it was going to be a challenge, and very demanding.  Another reason why I started the label is due to the fashion industry being saturated at the moment. There are not enough jobs for all the graduates; Melbourne has about 4 fashion schools producing highly skilled candidates. So I thought to myself why try to get a job when I could work for myself. Working for yourself, you have the chance to set your own times and make up your own rules, however there is more pressure when it is your own label because you want to make it work. When working for someone else you would do a 9 to 5 day and once you are done you just go home and chill. Having my own business, I find it hard to walk away after 8 hours and very often end up working more than a regular job.

Who would be your ultimate dinner date?

My ultimate dinner date would be my boyfriend Peter Midsummer. Which reminds me we haven’t gone on a dinner date for a while. I need to make up for that.

What makes you most happiest?

Chocolate and 90’s hip-hop makes me most happiest. I am addicted to sugar, hoop earrings and Janet Jackson

What would you like to change about the fashion industry?

I would like to change the mentality behind cheap deals and bargains in the fashion industry. Customers now expect everything at a cheap price and do not know what is involved in making garments. There are so many elements from pattern making, toiling, fitting, grading outsourcing fabric, production, printing, graphics which I had no idea were involved into a single garment before I started the course. The fast pace of the fashion industry is out of control; there are too many clothes on the market, which just end as landfill. It all comes down to education and people understanding that their time is just as important as a dress maker’s or a tailor‘s. The reason why some clothes are so cheap is because they has been mass produced under dubious circumstances.

Do you have any advice for up  and coming designers?

My advice would be to stick to your guns. It is a very competitive industry and there are so many talented designers. We represent the future of the fashion industry and we have the opportunity to make a change in the industry.  We have the skills and knowledge, so we should share it with others. I am not saying we should all be purist and be 100% eco friendly or sustainable but to be more aware of our choices and to take responsibilities for them. I try to promote sustainability by keeping my production on a very low scale. I am also ethically responsible by knowing who has been involved in the printing and manufacturing process by keeping it local. This is how I’ve approached the ethics of my label. Being an independent label there will be other areas where I will be lacking and you can’t please everyone e.g. I love using leather, does this make me a horrible designer?

Favourite cliché and why?

“Who are you wearing?” who cares…

What is one piece of advice that you will never forget being given?

Slow and steady wins the race. I was given this advice by my mum, turns out I have inherited my dad’s impatience.  

*Mosaik does not take credit for these photos